Short answer
Cut in a section with a brush, load the roller evenly (saturated, not dripping), roll a large W about an arm’s length tall, fill it in without lifting, then lay off with light top-to-bottom strokes. Move to the next section while the edge is wet, and always roll from the dry area back into the wet paint.
What you need
- A 9 inch frame and a cover with the right nap: 3/8 inch for most walls (nap guide)
- A tray or a bucket and grid (which one)
- An extension pole, an angled brush for cutting in, painter’s tape, drop cloths
Step by step
Prep the cover
Remove loose lint by rolling painter’s tape, sticky side out, over the cover; Benjamin Moore suggests this for fresh covers. For latex, dampen the cover with water and spin or blot until just damp.
Cut in one section
Brush a 2 to 3 inch band along the ceiling, corners and trim for the section you are about to roll, so the brushed paint is still wet when the roller meets it.
Load the roller
Dip the roller in the well, then roll it back and forth on the ramp or grid until it is evenly saturated but not dripping.
Roll a W
About a foot from a corner, roll a large W (or M) roughly an arm’s length tall, starting with an upward stroke. Keep pressure light.
Fill in without lifting
Roll back and forth across the W to fill the gaps, still without lifting the roller, until the section is evenly covered.
Lay off
With very little paint left on the cover, roll light, straight strokes from top to bottom across the whole section, overlapping each by half a roller width.
Move on, wet to dry
Reload, start the next W in the dry area, and roll back into the wet edge. Finish the wall without stopping, and break only at corners.
The W, fill and lay-off sequence is common painter guidance (see Valspar and HowStuffWorks). Working wet to dry and keeping a wet edge come from Benjamin Moore’s lap mark guidance.
Five mistakes that show up after it dries
- Pressing hard. It squeezes paint out the ends of the roller into ridges, and mats the nap.
- Rolling too dry. Stretching the last of the paint over a big area leaves thin, patchy coverage. Reload sooner.
- Going back over tacky paint. Touching up a section that has started to set drags it and leaves marks. Leave it for the next coat.
- Stopping mid-wall. Even a short break lets the edge dry, and the overlap shows as a stripe.
- Rolling too fast. Speed throws spatter and leaves foam or microfiber bubbles.
Next: how to avoid roller marks and how to clean the roller when you are done.
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Questions people ask
Do you wet a paint roller before using it?
For latex, many painters dampen the cover with water and spin or blot it until it is only damp. That helps it load evenly. For oil-based paint, use the solvent the can recommends instead of water. Never start with a dripping wet cover.
Why does my roller leave lines?
Lines at the ends of the roller come from pressing too hard or overloading; stripes across the wall come from rolling over paint that has started to dry (lap marks). Lighter pressure and a wet edge fix most of it. See our guide to avoiding roller marks.
Should I roll up or down first?
On the first stroke of a fresh load, roll upward so excess paint is not pushed down into a drip. After that, direction matters less than keeping strokes overlapping and finishing with light passes in one direction.
How many coats should I roll?
Usually two for a color change or fresh drywall (after primer), and one may do for a refresh in the same color. Follow the dry and recoat times on the can.
Sources
Last reviewed October 12, 2026. Specs and availability change; check the listing before you buy.